We often forget that many of the clothes we wear come from nature. Natural fibers such as cotton, linen, wool and cashmere come from plants and animals and depend on land and water resources. The sustainable supply of raw materials is essential in order not to overburden the land or overuse the water, which is particularly important in the context of climate change. For the World Day to Combat Desertification and Drought, we looked at the impact of fashion on land and water resources, using the example of cashmere in Mongolia.

The word cashmere immediately makes us think of softness. By passing a cashmere scarf through a ring, it is said that one can appreciate the fineness of the fiber. Cashmere comes from the soft coat produced by goats during the winter. “Due to the extreme climate, Mongolian cashmere is the finest and highest quality cashmere”, explains O. Misheel, deputy director of GOBI, a company that promotes sustainability in the industry.

GOBI has been working with cashmere for almost 40 years. As a member of the Sustainable Fiber Alliance and through its Sustainable Cashmere Project, GOBI works in three interconnected areas: promoting sustainable farming, improving cashmere quality and strengthening community management. It buys cashmere directly from breeders and provides training to ensure compliance with quality standards. Through investments in processing, it creates jobs and helps Mongolians benefit from the full added value of finished products.

According to O. Misheel, “Sustainability is one of our main promises to our customers. And we have started communicating our traceability, to make transparent how we source our cashmere, as well as how our cashmere is made.

Sustainability is indeed necessary. The demand for cashmere has increased and meeting it has resulted in more goats. It is a reliable income for the 30 percent of the population who depend on nomadic herding for their livelihood. But goats are particularly tough on the ground, they tear the grass by the root when they graze, preventing it from regenerating. Traditional grazing methods took this into account and allowed three sheep to one goat to avoid overcrowding the pastures. However, goats and sheep now graze in roughly equal proportions.

Overall herd size has also increased, doubling to around 70 million since 2000 and exceeding land carrying capacity in some areas. Overgrazing and climate change both contribute to land degradation and desertification in Mongolia. Higher temperatures and less rain have led to a drying trend, affecting pastures and water sources.

“Pasture resources and water supply, pasture conditions, complete feeding of livestock and proper management of livestock and animal husbandry must go hand in hand. This will enable sustainable cashmere production,” says shepherd G. Oyunchimeg.

About 70 percent of pastures in Mongolia are degraded to some degree. However, with climate-sensitive planning, protection of land and water sources, and sustainable livestock management, most of it can be restored.

The increase in livestock and supply of raw cashmere can also lead to price competition and a decline in quality. There is value in high quality, sustainably sourced products if the means of verification are there – they can reduce herd sizes, reverse land degradation and reduce pressure on water resources, without negative impact on farmers’ income.

But verifying sustainability, or even defining it, is not easy. “The fashion and textile industry needs more clarity on what is meant by sustainability, furthermore, validation of information and data needs to be available to the private sector. The infrastructure and ecosystem to ensure the validity and accountability of information, on which farmers are applying sustainable practices or not, is lacking,” says O. Misheel.

For farmers, change can present risks. As B. Batkhishig, co-founder and national director of the Sustainable Fiber Alliance, explains, “Gaps in knowledge and the willingness to act with confidence can pose challenges for growers when adopting new standards or certification requirements. Establishing reliable and effective communication between the multiple actors involved in the cashmere supply chain is the most critical factor in providing a realistic and common understanding of the benefits and processes related to certification to sustainability standards.

UNDP is supporting the Mongolian government through a number of complementary initiatives, including the Improving Adaptive Capacity and Risk Management of Rural Communities in Mongolia project. It combines climate-sensitive natural resource management and sustainable livestock planning, building on traditional cooperative approaches among livestock keepers while introducing innovative technologies for traceability and verification of livestock products. of sustainable origin. UNDP has also launched the Sustainable Cashmere Platform, which engages brands, local processors, pastoralist groups, development partners, civil society organizations and public authorities for a common understanding on cashmere sustainability. and establishes partnerships and coordinated investments to advance sustainability in production and processing.

Cashmere revenues come mainly from the raw product, little added value from processing is realized in the country. About 80% of Mongolian cashmere is exported, while only 20% is processed locally. Investing in local processing, such as spinning and knitting, could generate significant economic and social gains, including employment opportunities. Small businesses, however, may struggle to access finance for value chain investments. The government’s cashmere program aims to increase the level of local processing and UNDP is exploring ways to attract impact investment to improve domestic and export opportunities for sustainably sourced cashmere.

Reversing land degradation in Mongolia requires collaborative efforts, both to contribute to the country’s sustainability ambitions and to benefit from growing consumer demand for sustainability. As consumers, we can support this by asking brands how they ensure their cashmere is sourced sustainably – placing greater responsibility on brands and ensuring the economic viability of sustainability.